how to choose the right fabric base for your project

You’ve got the print. You’re in love. Now there’s a dropdown asking you to pick a fabric base and suddenly there are 21 options and you’re frozen. Cotton this, gsm that, woven, knit, lycra, what does any of it mean for the dress in your head. 😅

Take a breath. We’re going to make this easy. By the end of this you’ll know exactly which base to grab for what you’re making, no sewing degree required.

first, woven or knit

This is the big fork in the road, and it sorts most of your decision for you.

Woven fabrics don’t stretch, or barely. They’re made by threads crossing over and under each other. Think quilting cotton, poplin, drill, canvas. Lovely for structured makes that hold their shape.

Knit fabrics stretch. They’re looped together, so they move and hug. Think cotton lycra, French terry, rib knit. Perfect for comfy clothes you actually want to live in.

So before anything else, ask one question. Does my make need to stretch? Leggings, fitted tees, baby rompers, snuggly jumpers, yes please, go knit. Quilts, structured bags, button up dresses, tote bags, go woven.

Additionally, if you have a pattern that you are wanting to use, check the fabric requirements as they usually give you all the information you need to know.

the woven bases, and what they love

Here’s a friendly rundown of our woven options so you can match them to your make.

• Quilting Cotton is the dependable all rounder. Quilts, patchwork, easy dresses, bunting, the lot.
• Cotton Poplin is smooth and crisp. Shirts, dresses, lighter garments that want a bit of polish. But it crinkles easily and definitely needs an iron.
• Cotton Woven is your everyday versatile woven. Our most popular fabric base, always.
• Cotton Sateen has a soft sheen and lovely drape. Dresses and skirts that want to feel a touch fancy.
• Cotton Voile is light and a little sheer. Floaty tops, summer dresses, scarves.
• Cotton Drill is sturdy with a twill weave. Pants, jackets, structured bits.
• 210gsm Cotton Canvas and 250gsm Cotton Canvas are your heavy hitters. Bags, totes, cushions, aprons, anything that needs to be tough. The 210gsm Cotton Canvas acts more like a cotton drill.
• Cotton Linen gives that relaxed lived in texture. Dresses, tops, homewares with a natural feel. Think linen with a little more structure.
• Cotton Corduroy brings cosy texture and a retro nod. Pinafores, jackets, pants.
• Double Gauze Muslin is soft, breathable and dreamy. Baby wraps, summer clothes, light scarves.
• Cotton Jacquard has woven in texture and a bit of body. Statement garments and homewares.

the knit bases, and what they love

Now the stretchy crew, for anything that needs to move with you.

• 220gsm Cotton Lycra and 260gsm Cotton Lycra are the comfy clothing champions. Tees, leggings, dresses, kids clothes. The 260 is a bit heftier for cooler weather or more structure.
• Bamboo Cotton Lycra is silky soft against the skin. Baby and kids clothes, snuggly basics.
• French Terry is that lovely loop backed knit. Hoodies, joggers, comfy sweaters.
• Cotton Fleece is warm and soft. Jumpers, winter wear, cosy loungewear.
• Cotton Rib Knit has natural stretch and ribbing. Cuffs, necklines, fitted tops.

And the flowy few that drape beautifully:

• Viscose Rayon Satin is silky and fluid. Special occasion pieces, blouses, dresses with movement.
• Cotton Rayon Seersucker has that gorgeous puckered texture. Breezy warm weather makes.
• Rayon is soft and breezy with gorgeous drape. Floaty dresses and tops.

still not sure? do this

Here’s the honest truth. There is nothing like being able to touch and feel fabric to know if you like it. A photo and a gsm number only tell you so much.

So grab a Fabric Sample Pack before you commit. Run your fingers over the bases, drape them over your hand, see which one feels like the make in your head. It’s the single best way to choose with confidence, especially for your first few projects. You’ll see what we mean.

And remember, this is the whole point of Your Fabric. Your Way. The same print across 21 bases means you’re not stuck with whatever a shop decided to print it on. You choose the base that suits your project, your body, your make. That’s a kind of creative freedom you don’t get off a shelf. 🌈

frequently asked questions

what does gsm mean?
Grams per square metre. It’s the weight of the fabric. Higher gsm means heavier and usually sturdier. A 260gsm Cotton Lycra is more substantial than a 220gsm, for example.

which base is best for kids clothes?
For comfy everyday kids clothes, the Cotton Lycra bases and Bamboo Cotton Lycra are favourites because they stretch and feel soft. For little quilts or structured pieces, Quilting Cotton is lovely.

which base should a beginner start with?
Quilting Cotton or Cotton Woven are both forgiving and easy to sew. Start with structured fabrics and then work your way over to knits.

can i get the same print on different bases?
Yes. That’s the magic. Most prints are available across our fabric bases and three print scales, so you choose what suits your project.

i still can’t decide, what now?
Order a Fabric Sample Pack. Touching the real thing answers the question faster than any description can.

Choosing a base gets easier every time, promise. Start with woven or knit, match it to your make, and feel free to grab samples whenever you’re unsure.